Today is Wednesday, the last time I climbed was Monday 6th June, 9 days ago. Absolutely shocking!
My psyche has been unbelievably low since returning from Switzerland.
The last time I was at the cave was the 27th April, I cant even tell you how long ago that was. Too long?
I blame girls and having to sort my life out.
Anyway, Saturday 11 June I did the Rocfest comp at the Rockover in Manchester. Before the comp I had 2 sessions within the space of 2 weeks so was fighting fit and feeling really strong, not.
However, I was psyched which was quite surprising. 30 qualifying problems then the final, shouldnt be too much of a problem I thought. I went off ticking off all the easy/medium problems apart from one which I dropped like a punter but ah well. After trying not to overheat in the 45 degree greenhouse conditions of the Rockover I moved onto some of the harder problems. Even managing to flash one which Nige Callander didnt, must of been reachy ;) On the whole the day went well, I scored 251 points out of a possible 300 with 287 being the highest score, courtesy of Dan Varian. I placed 11th beating people I didnt ever expect to beat, one of which is on the British Bouldering Team. Good day on the whole!
No more comps for a while and no plans, hopefully gunna spend an hour or two at the wall tonight before going on a 2 day RAF training camp tomorrow.
Peace out y`all
Wednesday 15 June 2011
Sunday 8 May 2011
ASBO!
Friday was the day of the ASBO 2011 at Climb Newcastle.
I was psyched out of my tiny little mind and headed up there in White Beauty of course with Mr Hession, Ged and co in the Renault. We were all raring to go.
Team Hangar turned up with 3 hours of qualification left, 35 problems in 3 hours. Pretty simple eh? I warmed up flashing about 15 problems then slowed down so I wouldnt make too many mistakes. 20 problems left, I usually always climb alone in comps due to the fact that I can stay psyched and not get distracted by anybody else. A tricky mantle was the first problem to spit me off, I had one more go and still had not managed two hands on the finishing jug. I walked away, did 3 problems then returned and just about got to the top earning myself a respectful 4 points which gave me a position in the final. The only problem I didnt manage was in the Pool Area, a few slopers and a poor crimp were not to my liking. I think the problem had only seen 2 or 3 ascents in the whole day so i werent too fussed.
Qualification over, 334 points out of a possible 350. Not too bad, joint 5th position with Groundskeeper Ged for the final.
9pm, the finals were here. Ged was out first and I have to admit I werent feeling too psyched. 4 mins on 3 problems with a decent chunk of rest. Surely it couldnt be that bad?
Ged came back looking a bit surprised and I werent expecting to do well on Problem 1 as it was a mantle and well, yeah Ged can mantle so I had no chance. My 4 minutes were up in no time as i failed to catch the two green volumes after the first tricky section. Oh well, bring on Problem 2.
Problem 2 involved the most delightful drop down campus move to a huge sloper I have ever encountered in climbing. It was brilliant, get your foot on the screw-on and lock the left arm down to a small right hand crimp, which was also the bonus hold. Fail! I couldnt manage to hold the bonus hold which was unfortunate but I got pretty close which was a fairly good effort for me after all the climbing i had done by now.
Now then, problem 3. What could it be? A dyno of course, and what a dyno it was. Dyno out of the groove onto a sloper above the roof and catch a toe hook under the roof. A few warm up goes and I had done the dyno, psyched! Now a crimpy/slopey lip traverse with a huge foothold which moves about. Sounds easy enough, this go I managed to get the bonus hold as my right hand ripped off the crimp due to the humidity of a greenhouse in the wall. Time to nail it, through to the bonus hold for me again. I got to the surprisingly good holds above the bonus. One more blind slap to a screw on attached to the volume and I should be matching the finishing jug, right? Wrong, I missed the screw on first time around then managed to not catch it properly the second time I threw up for it. I hit the mats to find out I had 2 seconds left on the clock, Ah well! What a great problem that was!
I ended up finishing in 5th place just in front of Ged. Not too bad for my first bouldering comp in a while. Bring on the Beastmaker!
http://events.climbnewcastle.com/asbo.html
I was psyched out of my tiny little mind and headed up there in White Beauty of course with Mr Hession, Ged and co in the Renault. We were all raring to go.
Team Hangar turned up with 3 hours of qualification left, 35 problems in 3 hours. Pretty simple eh? I warmed up flashing about 15 problems then slowed down so I wouldnt make too many mistakes. 20 problems left, I usually always climb alone in comps due to the fact that I can stay psyched and not get distracted by anybody else. A tricky mantle was the first problem to spit me off, I had one more go and still had not managed two hands on the finishing jug. I walked away, did 3 problems then returned and just about got to the top earning myself a respectful 4 points which gave me a position in the final. The only problem I didnt manage was in the Pool Area, a few slopers and a poor crimp were not to my liking. I think the problem had only seen 2 or 3 ascents in the whole day so i werent too fussed.
Qualification over, 334 points out of a possible 350. Not too bad, joint 5th position with Groundskeeper Ged for the final.
9pm, the finals were here. Ged was out first and I have to admit I werent feeling too psyched. 4 mins on 3 problems with a decent chunk of rest. Surely it couldnt be that bad?
Ged came back looking a bit surprised and I werent expecting to do well on Problem 1 as it was a mantle and well, yeah Ged can mantle so I had no chance. My 4 minutes were up in no time as i failed to catch the two green volumes after the first tricky section. Oh well, bring on Problem 2.
Problem 2 involved the most delightful drop down campus move to a huge sloper I have ever encountered in climbing. It was brilliant, get your foot on the screw-on and lock the left arm down to a small right hand crimp, which was also the bonus hold. Fail! I couldnt manage to hold the bonus hold which was unfortunate but I got pretty close which was a fairly good effort for me after all the climbing i had done by now.
Now then, problem 3. What could it be? A dyno of course, and what a dyno it was. Dyno out of the groove onto a sloper above the roof and catch a toe hook under the roof. A few warm up goes and I had done the dyno, psyched! Now a crimpy/slopey lip traverse with a huge foothold which moves about. Sounds easy enough, this go I managed to get the bonus hold as my right hand ripped off the crimp due to the humidity of a greenhouse in the wall. Time to nail it, through to the bonus hold for me again. I got to the surprisingly good holds above the bonus. One more blind slap to a screw on attached to the volume and I should be matching the finishing jug, right? Wrong, I missed the screw on first time around then managed to not catch it properly the second time I threw up for it. I hit the mats to find out I had 2 seconds left on the clock, Ah well! What a great problem that was!
I ended up finishing in 5th place just in front of Ged. Not too bad for my first bouldering comp in a while. Bring on the Beastmaker!
http://events.climbnewcastle.com/asbo.html
Wednesday 4 May 2011
Well well well!
Its been a while!
Well, since arriving back from Switzerland climbing properly has been put off a little due to working quite alot, setting at the wall for the big comp etc. My psyche is slowly returning and i am quite keen to get training and on some new hard problems.
I have been to the infamous cave twice recently, trying The Wire 8A+ which links Lou Ferrino into Broken Heart. Having climbed both these problems before I thought it would be a good problem to try as most of the other link ups are either too hard or I have already spent alot of time on them and dont have much psyche to get involved. The two sessions I have had have went particularly well considering the grade of the problem, I have relearnt Broken Heart and done all the moves which connect the two problems together. Psyched to nail this one, first 8A+ maybe?
This Friday is also the ASBO 2011 competition at Climb Newcastle. Heading to this with a team of weak scousers and Ged to see how we get on! Looking forward to this as I have not been on the comp scene for a while and am interested in how i get on.
Will post back with some results, take it easy y`all!
Well, since arriving back from Switzerland climbing properly has been put off a little due to working quite alot, setting at the wall for the big comp etc. My psyche is slowly returning and i am quite keen to get training and on some new hard problems.
I have been to the infamous cave twice recently, trying The Wire 8A+ which links Lou Ferrino into Broken Heart. Having climbed both these problems before I thought it would be a good problem to try as most of the other link ups are either too hard or I have already spent alot of time on them and dont have much psyche to get involved. The two sessions I have had have went particularly well considering the grade of the problem, I have relearnt Broken Heart and done all the moves which connect the two problems together. Psyched to nail this one, first 8A+ maybe?
This Friday is also the ASBO 2011 competition at Climb Newcastle. Heading to this with a team of weak scousers and Ged to see how we get on! Looking forward to this as I have not been on the comp scene for a while and am interested in how i get on.
Will post back with some results, take it easy y`all!
Thursday 21 April 2011
Day 13: Easy day.
If you hadnt already guessed due to me not posting about the final day not much happened.
Did some easy climbs, upto 7A at Chironico due to still not feeling 100%. At this point I was psyched to get home and make a recovery. Which I have done now thankfully.
Switzerland opened my eyes and made me realise I am not as strong as I would like to be and that I am slightly underachieving so its time to start training for me whilst all this bad, hot weather is here sweating up the crags.
Did some easy climbs, upto 7A at Chironico due to still not feeling 100%. At this point I was psyched to get home and make a recovery. Which I have done now thankfully.
Switzerland opened my eyes and made me realise I am not as strong as I would like to be and that I am slightly underachieving so its time to start training for me whilst all this bad, hot weather is here sweating up the crags.
Thursday 14 April 2011
Day 11 and 12: Failure!
Im blogging these days as the same because I have achieved absolutely nothing. Its pathetic.
The sun stroke I thought I had has still not left my weak, destroyed body leading me to believe that it may not be sun stroke. Tomorrow is the last day we have here, it is forecast rain and I still dont feel 100 percent and havent achieved my goal. Who knows what will happen.
Im in a dark place at the moment but on the up side, cookies and ice cream for dessert. Nice!
The sun stroke I thought I had has still not left my weak, destroyed body leading me to believe that it may not be sun stroke. Tomorrow is the last day we have here, it is forecast rain and I still dont feel 100 percent and havent achieved my goal. Who knows what will happen.
Im in a dark place at the moment but on the up side, cookies and ice cream for dessert. Nice!
Tuesday 12 April 2011
Day 10: 3 days left!
Today was another rest day, well needed by everyone after destroying ourselves on many boulders!
3 days more climbing on the trip, I guess its time to go all out and try to get something ticked before we leave. The temps have dropped quite alot today, also had some rain which is good! Chironico is the plan for tomorrow, hopefully gunna have a go at Arete with a Pocket 7C+. Possibly a few other 7C/C+`s.
The goal for the trip was 3-5 7C/C+`s. So far ive managed one 7C and one 7C+ so one more and I would be more than happy.
Lets see how it goes! Later beasts!
3 days more climbing on the trip, I guess its time to go all out and try to get something ticked before we leave. The temps have dropped quite alot today, also had some rain which is good! Chironico is the plan for tomorrow, hopefully gunna have a go at Arete with a Pocket 7C+. Possibly a few other 7C/C+`s.
The goal for the trip was 3-5 7C/C+`s. So far ive managed one 7C and one 7C+ so one more and I would be more than happy.
Lets see how it goes! Later beasts!
Day 9: Finally!
Well well well!
Monday came and I was feeling rather rough after the previous 2 days on at Magic Wood! I had planned to rest and wasted no time having a sleep on my pad at Schattental whilst everyone else warmed up and got psyched.
Rich had been here a few days before and recommended the problem Powerstrips 7C which he managed to flash. I dug deep, put my shoes on and got involved after a 5+ slab warm up. I was feeling motivated, the problem looked brilliant, the holds were positive and conditions were fairly good. I pulled on, slapped the jug, wrapped my left toe on and got through the crux quite steadily. A tricky top out to finish and I had flashed it too. My second 7C flash, quite psyched for that. Maybe it was soft, who knows?
Monday came and I was feeling rather rough after the previous 2 days on at Magic Wood! I had planned to rest and wasted no time having a sleep on my pad at Schattental whilst everyone else warmed up and got psyched.
Rich had been here a few days before and recommended the problem Powerstrips 7C which he managed to flash. I dug deep, put my shoes on and got involved after a 5+ slab warm up. I was feeling motivated, the problem looked brilliant, the holds were positive and conditions were fairly good. I pulled on, slapped the jug, wrapped my left toe on and got through the crux quite steadily. A tricky top out to finish and I had flashed it too. My second 7C flash, quite psyched for that. Maybe it was soft, who knows?
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