If you hadnt already guessed due to me not posting about the final day not much happened.
Did some easy climbs, upto 7A at Chironico due to still not feeling 100%. At this point I was psyched to get home and make a recovery. Which I have done now thankfully.
Switzerland opened my eyes and made me realise I am not as strong as I would like to be and that I am slightly underachieving so its time to start training for me whilst all this bad, hot weather is here sweating up the crags.
Thursday, 21 April 2011
Thursday, 14 April 2011
Day 11 and 12: Failure!
Im blogging these days as the same because I have achieved absolutely nothing. Its pathetic.
The sun stroke I thought I had has still not left my weak, destroyed body leading me to believe that it may not be sun stroke. Tomorrow is the last day we have here, it is forecast rain and I still dont feel 100 percent and havent achieved my goal. Who knows what will happen.
Im in a dark place at the moment but on the up side, cookies and ice cream for dessert. Nice!
The sun stroke I thought I had has still not left my weak, destroyed body leading me to believe that it may not be sun stroke. Tomorrow is the last day we have here, it is forecast rain and I still dont feel 100 percent and havent achieved my goal. Who knows what will happen.
Im in a dark place at the moment but on the up side, cookies and ice cream for dessert. Nice!
Tuesday, 12 April 2011
Day 10: 3 days left!
Today was another rest day, well needed by everyone after destroying ourselves on many boulders!
3 days more climbing on the trip, I guess its time to go all out and try to get something ticked before we leave. The temps have dropped quite alot today, also had some rain which is good! Chironico is the plan for tomorrow, hopefully gunna have a go at Arete with a Pocket 7C+. Possibly a few other 7C/C+`s.
The goal for the trip was 3-5 7C/C+`s. So far ive managed one 7C and one 7C+ so one more and I would be more than happy.
Lets see how it goes! Later beasts!
3 days more climbing on the trip, I guess its time to go all out and try to get something ticked before we leave. The temps have dropped quite alot today, also had some rain which is good! Chironico is the plan for tomorrow, hopefully gunna have a go at Arete with a Pocket 7C+. Possibly a few other 7C/C+`s.
The goal for the trip was 3-5 7C/C+`s. So far ive managed one 7C and one 7C+ so one more and I would be more than happy.
Lets see how it goes! Later beasts!
Day 9: Finally!
Well well well!
Monday came and I was feeling rather rough after the previous 2 days on at Magic Wood! I had planned to rest and wasted no time having a sleep on my pad at Schattental whilst everyone else warmed up and got psyched.
Rich had been here a few days before and recommended the problem Powerstrips 7C which he managed to flash. I dug deep, put my shoes on and got involved after a 5+ slab warm up. I was feeling motivated, the problem looked brilliant, the holds were positive and conditions were fairly good. I pulled on, slapped the jug, wrapped my left toe on and got through the crux quite steadily. A tricky top out to finish and I had flashed it too. My second 7C flash, quite psyched for that. Maybe it was soft, who knows?
Monday came and I was feeling rather rough after the previous 2 days on at Magic Wood! I had planned to rest and wasted no time having a sleep on my pad at Schattental whilst everyone else warmed up and got psyched.
Rich had been here a few days before and recommended the problem Powerstrips 7C which he managed to flash. I dug deep, put my shoes on and got involved after a 5+ slab warm up. I was feeling motivated, the problem looked brilliant, the holds were positive and conditions were fairly good. I pulled on, slapped the jug, wrapped my left toe on and got through the crux quite steadily. A tricky top out to finish and I had flashed it too. My second 7C flash, quite psyched for that. Maybe it was soft, who knows?
Sunday, 10 April 2011
Day 8: Destruction!
What a day! Magic wood again, failure again, weakness yet again.
A quick nap next to the river for an hour and a rest day previously, I thought I would have a fairly strong day. This werent the case, a quick warm up was done then I jumped on Man Of Cow 7C again. I pulled on and got into the crux nice and steadily, dug my left foot in and went for the cross over. I fired off and had a hole in my fingertip, operation tape up begun and I pulled back on. Feeling good and confident again I pulled on and managed to fall off the same move 6 times. I was agonisingly close but gave up due to my left bicep feeling like it was gunna explode off the bone.
I put the bicep injury down to an insufficient warm up which is something I dont usually do! Its feeling pretty tender and really painful at the moment but hopefully it will sort itself out and I can attempt to climb either tomorrow or the next day.
5 days left, hopefully its time to achieve!
A quick nap next to the river for an hour and a rest day previously, I thought I would have a fairly strong day. This werent the case, a quick warm up was done then I jumped on Man Of Cow 7C again. I pulled on and got into the crux nice and steadily, dug my left foot in and went for the cross over. I fired off and had a hole in my fingertip, operation tape up begun and I pulled back on. Feeling good and confident again I pulled on and managed to fall off the same move 6 times. I was agonisingly close but gave up due to my left bicep feeling like it was gunna explode off the bone.
I put the bicep injury down to an insufficient warm up which is something I dont usually do! Its feeling pretty tender and really painful at the moment but hopefully it will sort itself out and I can attempt to climb either tomorrow or the next day.
5 days left, hopefully its time to achieve!
Saturday, 9 April 2011
Day 7: Rest Day!
Rest,rest,rest! Its all I ever seem to need on this trip, quite unusual as i regularly climb for upto 7 days at a time before resting!
Were staying just outside of Bellinzona and its 30 degrees in the shade, probably 35 in the direct sun! Far too hot to climb, hopefully it will cool down so we dont have to drive to Magic Wood each day and can sample some of the climbing closer to home!
If its still really hot tomorrow i guess we will go to Magic, if not i would love to check out Brione but who knows yet!
Take it easy geezers!
Were staying just outside of Bellinzona and its 30 degrees in the shade, probably 35 in the direct sun! Far too hot to climb, hopefully it will cool down so we dont have to drive to Magic Wood each day and can sample some of the climbing closer to home!
If its still really hot tomorrow i guess we will go to Magic, if not i would love to check out Brione but who knows yet!
Take it easy geezers!
Day 6: More Magic Wood!
Team McShane heard about conditions and temps at Magic Wood and were totally psyched. Day 2 at Magic Wood it was!
We got up there, i was feeling tired and not too psyched! I dug deep and found the will to put on my shoes and get warmed up. Some nice easy problems next to the river were exactly what i needed. I then tried 2 7A dynos and got totally shut down, I just cant jump outdoors anymore which is a shame. Probably a good thing, dont wanna break an ankle on a trip!
I walked upto Octopussy 8A, Rich persuaded me to have a go which was a bad idea. I got shut down and lost alot of psyche! Man Of Cow 7C, came back into my mind so i thought id go give that one more go and hopefully get it done. The crux felt alot better and i was getting more purchase off the gaston into the sidepull but i couldnt quite manage it so yet again moved on.
A flash of Schrotti 7B, lifted my spirits then i did another 7B second go, Hageltrauma. I should of flashed this one but i had a foot pop after getting through the crux. Oh well!
I was done climbing for the day at this point as I felt destroyed and needed a rest day.
We got up there, i was feeling tired and not too psyched! I dug deep and found the will to put on my shoes and get warmed up. Some nice easy problems next to the river were exactly what i needed. I then tried 2 7A dynos and got totally shut down, I just cant jump outdoors anymore which is a shame. Probably a good thing, dont wanna break an ankle on a trip!
I walked upto Octopussy 8A, Rich persuaded me to have a go which was a bad idea. I got shut down and lost alot of psyche! Man Of Cow 7C, came back into my mind so i thought id go give that one more go and hopefully get it done. The crux felt alot better and i was getting more purchase off the gaston into the sidepull but i couldnt quite manage it so yet again moved on.
A flash of Schrotti 7B, lifted my spirits then i did another 7B second go, Hageltrauma. I should of flashed this one but i had a foot pop after getting through the crux. Oh well!
I was done climbing for the day at this point as I felt destroyed and needed a rest day.
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