Day 5: Magic Wood!

How perfect! We headed out of Ticino in 28 degree heat to Magic Wood where the lakes were still frozen and there was snow under some of the problems. The rock was cool, the air was cool and conditions were perfect compared to Cresciano and Chironico.

We warmed up on some nice arete and crimpy wall climb then I flashed Scrubs 7A. Further up the hill we ventured to try Man Of Cow 7C. Rich had tried it before so gave me all the beta, pulled on and managed to fall off the crux crossing over off a bit of a poor gaston. I fell off this move 5 times then decided to give up and come back for it.

10 more minutes of walking uphill and we came across Fiegen Erlaubt 7B. Apparently it was basic, powerful moves on big holds with a spicy green topout. Sounded fun! I managed to flash this one and even campus one of the moves. Definitely no extra style points for wasting energy there!

It was getting on a bit now and our arms were becoming weaker and weaker, apart from Rich`s as he had been saving himself for Cote du Seshuan 7C+ on the Bruno boulder down by the river. This was the best looking boulder i had ever seen, totally world class with 6 or 7 amazing looking lines ranging from 7B+ to 8B+. Richie managed to climb the 7C+ in about 20 minutes after working out all the moves then he suggested i tried The Never Ending Story 8A. I would absolutely love to climb this and wasted no time in getting stuck in. The first move is probably the hardest, a huge throw off a juggy pinch on a weird angle to a 1 pad crimp. After this is another really hard move, i didnt actually manage this move at the time but was either really close to all the others or did the move so alot more work is needed to be able to get this problem. For me 8A is really hard at the moment, especially on a trip where conditions may not be perfect, skin isnt the best and you have had a few days on at other venues. Ive also not climbed a proper bloc 8A, only long link ups in the cave. So if i was to climb it i could probably say it was my first proper 8A. Unfortunately i dont think ill climb it on this trip but definitely psyched to get stronger, come back at some point and see how i get on.