What a day! Magic wood again, failure again, weakness yet again.
A quick nap next to the river for an hour and a rest day previously, I thought I would have a fairly strong day. This werent the case, a quick warm up was done then I jumped on Man Of Cow 7C again. I pulled on and got into the crux nice and steadily, dug my left foot in and went for the cross over. I fired off and had a hole in my fingertip, operation tape up begun and I pulled back on. Feeling good and confident again I pulled on and managed to fall off the same move 6 times. I was agonisingly close but gave up due to my left bicep feeling like it was gunna explode off the bone.
I put the bicep injury down to an insufficient warm up which is something I dont usually do! Its feeling pretty tender and really painful at the moment but hopefully it will sort itself out and I can attempt to climb either tomorrow or the next day.
5 days left, hopefully its time to achieve!
Sunday, 10 April 2011
Saturday, 9 April 2011
Day 7: Rest Day!
Rest,rest,rest! Its all I ever seem to need on this trip, quite unusual as i regularly climb for upto 7 days at a time before resting!
Were staying just outside of Bellinzona and its 30 degrees in the shade, probably 35 in the direct sun! Far too hot to climb, hopefully it will cool down so we dont have to drive to Magic Wood each day and can sample some of the climbing closer to home!
If its still really hot tomorrow i guess we will go to Magic, if not i would love to check out Brione but who knows yet!
Take it easy geezers!
Were staying just outside of Bellinzona and its 30 degrees in the shade, probably 35 in the direct sun! Far too hot to climb, hopefully it will cool down so we dont have to drive to Magic Wood each day and can sample some of the climbing closer to home!
If its still really hot tomorrow i guess we will go to Magic, if not i would love to check out Brione but who knows yet!
Take it easy geezers!
Day 6: More Magic Wood!
Team McShane heard about conditions and temps at Magic Wood and were totally psyched. Day 2 at Magic Wood it was!
We got up there, i was feeling tired and not too psyched! I dug deep and found the will to put on my shoes and get warmed up. Some nice easy problems next to the river were exactly what i needed. I then tried 2 7A dynos and got totally shut down, I just cant jump outdoors anymore which is a shame. Probably a good thing, dont wanna break an ankle on a trip!
I walked upto Octopussy 8A, Rich persuaded me to have a go which was a bad idea. I got shut down and lost alot of psyche! Man Of Cow 7C, came back into my mind so i thought id go give that one more go and hopefully get it done. The crux felt alot better and i was getting more purchase off the gaston into the sidepull but i couldnt quite manage it so yet again moved on.
A flash of Schrotti 7B, lifted my spirits then i did another 7B second go, Hageltrauma. I should of flashed this one but i had a foot pop after getting through the crux. Oh well!
I was done climbing for the day at this point as I felt destroyed and needed a rest day.
We got up there, i was feeling tired and not too psyched! I dug deep and found the will to put on my shoes and get warmed up. Some nice easy problems next to the river were exactly what i needed. I then tried 2 7A dynos and got totally shut down, I just cant jump outdoors anymore which is a shame. Probably a good thing, dont wanna break an ankle on a trip!
I walked upto Octopussy 8A, Rich persuaded me to have a go which was a bad idea. I got shut down and lost alot of psyche! Man Of Cow 7C, came back into my mind so i thought id go give that one more go and hopefully get it done. The crux felt alot better and i was getting more purchase off the gaston into the sidepull but i couldnt quite manage it so yet again moved on.
A flash of Schrotti 7B, lifted my spirits then i did another 7B second go, Hageltrauma. I should of flashed this one but i had a foot pop after getting through the crux. Oh well!
I was done climbing for the day at this point as I felt destroyed and needed a rest day.
Day 5: Magic Wood!
How perfect! We headed out of Ticino in 28 degree heat to Magic Wood where the lakes were still frozen and there was snow under some of the problems. The rock was cool, the air was cool and conditions were perfect compared to Cresciano and Chironico.
We warmed up on some nice arete and crimpy wall climb then I flashed Scrubs 7A. Further up the hill we ventured to try Man Of Cow 7C. Rich had tried it before so gave me all the beta, pulled on and managed to fall off the crux crossing over off a bit of a poor gaston. I fell off this move 5 times then decided to give up and come back for it.
10 more minutes of walking uphill and we came across Fiegen Erlaubt 7B. Apparently it was basic, powerful moves on big holds with a spicy green topout. Sounded fun! I managed to flash this one and even campus one of the moves. Definitely no extra style points for wasting energy there!
It was getting on a bit now and our arms were becoming weaker and weaker, apart from Rich`s as he had been saving himself for Cote du Seshuan 7C+ on the Bruno boulder down by the river. This was the best looking boulder i had ever seen, totally world class with 6 or 7 amazing looking lines ranging from 7B+ to 8B+. Richie managed to climb the 7C+ in about 20 minutes after working out all the moves then he suggested i tried The Never Ending Story 8A. I would absolutely love to climb this and wasted no time in getting stuck in. The first move is probably the hardest, a huge throw off a juggy pinch on a weird angle to a 1 pad crimp. After this is another really hard move, i didnt actually manage this move at the time but was either really close to all the others or did the move so alot more work is needed to be able to get this problem. For me 8A is really hard at the moment, especially on a trip where conditions may not be perfect, skin isnt the best and you have had a few days on at other venues. Ive also not climbed a proper bloc 8A, only long link ups in the cave. So if i was to climb it i could probably say it was my first proper 8A. Unfortunately i dont think ill climb it on this trip but definitely psyched to get stronger, come back at some point and see how i get on.
We warmed up on some nice arete and crimpy wall climb then I flashed Scrubs 7A. Further up the hill we ventured to try Man Of Cow 7C. Rich had tried it before so gave me all the beta, pulled on and managed to fall off the crux crossing over off a bit of a poor gaston. I fell off this move 5 times then decided to give up and come back for it.
10 more minutes of walking uphill and we came across Fiegen Erlaubt 7B. Apparently it was basic, powerful moves on big holds with a spicy green topout. Sounded fun! I managed to flash this one and even campus one of the moves. Definitely no extra style points for wasting energy there!
It was getting on a bit now and our arms were becoming weaker and weaker, apart from Rich`s as he had been saving himself for Cote du Seshuan 7C+ on the Bruno boulder down by the river. This was the best looking boulder i had ever seen, totally world class with 6 or 7 amazing looking lines ranging from 7B+ to 8B+. Richie managed to climb the 7C+ in about 20 minutes after working out all the moves then he suggested i tried The Never Ending Story 8A. I would absolutely love to climb this and wasted no time in getting stuck in. The first move is probably the hardest, a huge throw off a juggy pinch on a weird angle to a 1 pad crimp. After this is another really hard move, i didnt actually manage this move at the time but was either really close to all the others or did the move so alot more work is needed to be able to get this problem. For me 8A is really hard at the moment, especially on a trip where conditions may not be perfect, skin isnt the best and you have had a few days on at other venues. Ive also not climbed a proper bloc 8A, only long link ups in the cave. So if i was to climb it i could probably say it was my first proper 8A. Unfortunately i dont think ill climb it on this trip but definitely psyched to get stronger, come back at some point and see how i get on.
Wednesday, 6 April 2011
Day 4: Rest Day
After three days on a rest day was well and truly deserved so i had a lie in and did nothing whatsoever!
Tomorrow we are gunna head to Magic Wood as its a lot more shaded and far too hot in Ticino at the moment! So psyched, gunna pull my finger out and try to climb something!
Tomorrow we are gunna head to Magic Wood as its a lot more shaded and far too hot in Ticino at the moment! So psyched, gunna pull my finger out and try to climb something!
Day 3: More punting
Yesterday we headed upto Chironico as we had not been before and it was meant to be alot cooler due to it being higher up in the valley.
Warmed up doing some nice traverses and a few small dynos then jumped on Vitruvian Man 7C. Managed to get through all the moves until the crux which is a big slap to the lip. Quite tricky for 7C i thought, one to go back for.
My skin lasted about half an hour so i stopped climbing as it was my third day on and i didnt want to bleed, not just yet anyway.
Warmed up doing some nice traverses and a few small dynos then jumped on Vitruvian Man 7C. Managed to get through all the moves until the crux which is a big slap to the lip. Quite tricky for 7C i thought, one to go back for.
My skin lasted about half an hour so i stopped climbing as it was my third day on and i didnt want to bleed, not just yet anyway.
Monday, 4 April 2011
Day 2: Punter!
An early start today, and an epic walk upto Cresciano for the second time!
Started off really cool with a 5 minute rain shower which was good for the psyche! Less heat = easier rock climbs. This was not the case unfortunately, ran about doing warm ups then got shut down on Franks Wild Years 8A+ with Rich 'Christianoff` Hession. We liked the look of XP 7C so went to try and destroy it. Yet again we failed, the desperate pull on with shit smears was not what i was expecting. I jibbed it off and Rich crushed it an hour later after looking at some other problems.
I called it a day due to Chironico being the venue for tomorrow. Not been to Chironico yet so looking forward to that. Looks like alot more do-able problems there, for me anyway! Could be a good day, hopefully the sun will hide behind the clouds and it will be nice and cool!
Its beer o clock, peace out!
Started off really cool with a 5 minute rain shower which was good for the psyche! Less heat = easier rock climbs. This was not the case unfortunately, ran about doing warm ups then got shut down on Franks Wild Years 8A+ with Rich 'Christianoff` Hession. We liked the look of XP 7C so went to try and destroy it. Yet again we failed, the desperate pull on with shit smears was not what i was expecting. I jibbed it off and Rich crushed it an hour later after looking at some other problems.
I called it a day due to Chironico being the venue for tomorrow. Not been to Chironico yet so looking forward to that. Looks like alot more do-able problems there, for me anyway! Could be a good day, hopefully the sun will hide behind the clouds and it will be nice and cool!
Its beer o clock, peace out!
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